Probably the most often question I get is about how and when to clean up ancient weapons and armor. Every collector has different tastes; some are content to keep their Antiques undisturbed, while others are eager to fully restore them. I believe that the ideal degree of cleaning should be somewhere in the middle and that each item needs to be carefully and individually evaluated. Rust comes in two primary varieties: the dusty red of active rust and the black spots and pitting of dead rust. Although the black patches lessen a blade's aesthetic appeal, they also frequently reveal the blade's age, which many people find appealing. However, active rust should never be allowed to worsen since it will keep destroying the steel until it is neutralized or the remaining healthy Metal is entirely gone. Our website features a wide range of suppliers and manufacturers that deal with Aluminium Round Ring Riveted Chain Mail.
My favorite technique for removing surface rust is using an aerosol polish. This is readily available online and, depending on how obstinate the subject is, can be applied using fingertips, old rags, or even fine-grade steel wool. Use your favorite vehicle to carefully work the polish into the steel, and then remove it with clean, soft towels. If you use an old toothbrush before the polish dries, it will remove any remaining polish that may have gotten into cracks and crevices.
Grease:
It's crucial to unveil a few disclaimers before we get started. First off, restoring Antiques can significantly lower its worth. If you own anything valuable or are unsure about cleaning it in any way, please get in touch with a professional or think about sending me a message on Patreon. Second, if you've come to this article hoping to work on an Antique Japanese weapon, please be aware that nihonto (and antiquities of other cultures) require a very different approach. I have most of my experience working on historical European and Indo-Persian arms. Thirdly, since they are quite skilled, I advise hiring conservators to clean your Antique Sword.
Cleaning Brass:
Another frequent component that one may have to deal with is old grease, which has frequently hardened and discolored. There are two ways to break it up: using dental or bamboo picks to chip it off, or using white spirit to soften the grease enough to just scrub it off. Both techniques should be used carefully on brass since it is a delicate Metal that is readily scratched and because any remaining gilding will probably be thin beneath the grease layer. The hilt shown above left has hard, dry grease on it; the final product is visible above right (the dark areas of the completed hilt are bare brass). These outcomes were attained by laboriously removing the grease.
Restoring Grips:
Many owners have probably utilized Antique Metal Swords on artillery shells, brass hilts, trench art, and other items. It is usually often sprayed extensively and produces an unwanted green-grey residue in its wake. This prefers to live in nooks and valleys and to get rid of it, you have to chip it off, which can be a tedious and difficult task. Lemon juice will help break it up, but it will also lighten the brass's color. While some collectors prefer brass's natural dull patina, breaking it up with lemon juice will also lighten the brass's color, so it might not be entirely wise to lighten the brass (although I have found that brass will usually return to a darkened state within a couple of years, even without handling). The hilts pictured above had a lot of residues nestled inside their voids, particularly in the royal ciphers. To remove this residue, dental picks or other tools like porcupine quills had to be used to soften it first with lemon juice. However, I think the result is well worth the work. It's crucial to note that is a respectable product.
Mokume Gane:
I use a stiff-bristled toothbrush in a circular motion to clean shagreen, which is cured fish skin used to wrap some Antique handles. After that, I'll feed the shagreen with a light oil, such as Baby Oil or 3-in-1, wiping off any extra and letting it soak in. This might also feed the hardwood core of the grip, which can become cracked, dried up, and shrunken. Wood glue can be used to reattach any shagreen that has peeled away from the wooden core, though I'm not sure how reliable this technique is. Keep Evaporust away from the shagreen if you're applying it elsewhere on a blade since, given enough time, it will completely consume it.
If any grip-wire remains, it can be polished brightly and softly buffed, but caution is advised as it is frequently brittle. If the wire is indeed loose, you can reset it by wrapping it again (a tight finish is preferred, but be aware that the wire can break under tension). Then, feed the end back into the hole that should be beneath the knuckle-bow, close to the ferrule. The wire end should stay in the hole with the help of wood glue and a few cocktail sticks that have been chopped into pegs.
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